If your dryer is not heating, the most common causes are a tripped breaker (electric dryers often use two), restricted airflow from a clogged lint filter or vent, a failed heating element, or a blown thermal fuse. In many cases it’s a simple airflow blockage or power issue—but if the drum tumbles normally and clothes stay cold, it can also be a true mechanical/electrical failure inside the dryer.

Start with the quick checks (power, settings, lint/vent). If those don’t restore heat, you’ll want to narrow down whether you’re dealing with an airflow/overheat safety shutdown or a failed component like the element, igniter, or control board.

1) Why This Problem Happens

Dryers make heat only when the unit has the right power supply, proper airflow, and functioning heat components. When any of those are interrupted, the dryer may tumble but never get hot—or it may heat briefly and then stop.

Common cause #1: Power supply issue (especially on electric dryers)

• What it is: Electric dryers typically need 240V (two 120V “legs”). If one breaker trips, the dryer can still run the motor but won’t heat.
• Why it happens: Breaker trip, loose cord/terminal block, outlet issue, or a home wiring problem.
• How serious: Moderate. A simple reset may fix it; loose connections can overheat and should be addressed promptly.
• DIY-fixable: Often yes (breaker reset and basic inspection). Electrical repairs beyond that are best left to a pro.

Common cause #2: Restricted airflow (lint filter, vent hose, or exterior vent)

• What it is: The dryer can’t move enough air, causing overheating and triggering safety devices that shut heat off.
• Why it happens: Lint buildup, crushed/long vent runs, blocked exterior hood, or a clogged internal duct.
• How serious: High. Poor airflow can damage components and increases fire risk.
• DIY-fixable: Often yes (cleaning and vent inspection), though deep vent cleaning may require special tools.

Common cause #3: Blown thermal fuse or high-limit thermostat

• What it is: Safety parts that open the circuit when the dryer overheats. Many dryers won’t heat again until the failed part is replaced.
• Why it happens: Usually caused by airflow restriction; sometimes normal wear.
• How serious: High. Replacing the fuse without fixing the vent problem often leads to repeat failure.
• DIY-fixable: Possible for experienced DIYers with a multimeter, but access can be tight and diagnosis matters.

Common cause #4: Failed heating element (electric) or igniter/gas valve components (gas)

• What it is: Electric dryers use a coil-style heating element; gas dryers use an igniter and gas valve system to light the burner.
• Why it happens: Age, overheating from poor airflow, or electrical wear.
• How serious: Moderate to high. The dryer may run but never heat, or heat intermittently.
• DIY-fixable: Sometimes, but gas systems and electrical testing are often best handled by a technician.

Common cause #5: Timer, relay, sensor, or control board failure

• What it is: The dryer’s “brain” or switching components fail to send power to the heater/burner.
• Why it happens: Normal component failure, power surges, or heat stress.
• How serious: Moderate. Diagnosis can be tricky because symptoms mimic other failures.
• DIY-fixable: Not usually. Control diagnostics and safe electrical testing are typically professional-level.

2) Why This Problem Should Not Be Ignored

A dryer that runs but doesn’t heat is more than an inconvenience. Continuing to run it can create bigger problems:

• Component damage from overheating: Restricted airflow can overheat the heater housing, thermostats, and wiring, leading to more expensive repairs.
• Fire risk from lint buildup: Lint is highly flammable. A clogged vent is one of the most common safety issues in laundry rooms.
• Moisture and odor issues: Clothes that never fully dry can develop musty odors; a damp laundry area can contribute to humidity problems.
• Higher energy use: Multiple long cycles waste electricity or gas without solving the root issue.
• Cost escalation: A simple vent cleaning can turn into a heater, thermostat, or control repair if the dryer keeps overheating.

3) Step 1: Try These Fixes First (DIY Troubleshooting)

Safety first: Unplug the dryer (or switch off the breaker) before opening panels. For gas dryers, shut off the gas supply if you’re inspecting burner components. If you smell gas, stop and contact your gas utility or a qualified technician.

Step 1: Confirm the cycle and temperature settings

1. Make sure you’re not on Air Fluff / No Heat or a low-temp setting.
2. Try a timed dry cycle on High Heat for 10–15 minutes.
3. Verify the load size isn’t too small (some sensor cycles may end early).

Success sign: You feel noticeable heat at the exhaust and clothes begin warming. If there’s still no heat, continue.

Step 2: Clean the lint filter and check the lint screen housing

1. Remove the lint filter and wash it with warm water and a soft brush if it has a waxy film (fabric softener sheets can coat it).
2. With the filter removed, look down into the lint screen housing for buildup.

Success sign: Improved airflow and faster drying. If heat is still missing, move on.

Step 3: Check airflow at the exterior vent

1. Run the dryer for a few minutes.
2. Go outside and feel the airflow at the vent hood.

• Strong airflow: Vent is likely okay (but still could be partially restricted).
• Weak/no airflow: The vent line may be blocked, crushed, or disconnected.

Step 4: Inspect the vent hose behind the dryer

1. Turn off power and gently pull the dryer away from the wall.
2. Check that the vent hose isn’t kinked, crushed, or packed with lint.
3. If safe to do so, disconnect the vent hose and remove visible lint.

Quick test: With the vent hose disconnected (and the dryer moved so lint won’t blow into the wall cavity), run the dryer briefly. If heat returns and airflow is strong, the venting system is the likely culprit.

Step 5: Reset power properly (electric dryers)

1. Locate your home’s electrical panel.
2. Find the dryer’s double-pole breaker. Flip it fully off, then back on.

What it means: If the dryer heats after a reset, you may have had a partial trip. If it happens again, have the circuit and dryer connection inspected.

Step 6: For gas dryers—confirm gas supply basics

1. Confirm the gas shutoff valve is fully open (handle parallel to the pipe).
2. Verify other gas appliances in the home are working.

Note: If the dryer tumbles but never heats and you don’t see the burner ignite, the issue may be igniter, flame sensor, or gas valve coils—typically a repair diagnosis.

4) Step 2: Identifying Mechanical vs Electrical Failure

Use your dryer’s behavior to narrow the likely category of failure.

If the dryer tumbles normally but there is no heat at all

• Electric dryer: Common suspects are a tripped breaker (one leg), failed heating element, blown thermal fuse, or failed heater relay/control board.
• Gas dryer: Common suspects are igniter, flame sensor, gas valve coils, thermal fuse, or control issue.
• Most likely: Electrical component failure or a safety device open due to overheating.

If it heats for a few minutes, then stops heating

• Most likely: Airflow restriction causing overheating, weak gas valve coils (gas), or cycling thermostat/high-limit issues.
• DIY angle: Venting and lint checks are the first priority.

If it is silent or won’t start, and also has no heat

• Most likely: Door switch, start switch, belt switch, motor, or main control problem—this is broader than “no heat.”
• Next step: Treat it as a no-start issue; heating components may not be the primary failure.

If drying is slow but you can feel some heat

• Most likely: Vent restriction, lint buildup, overloaded drum, or sensor/cycle selection issue.
• DIY angle: Vent cleaning and airflow testing usually produce the biggest improvement.

5) Repair Cost Expectations

Dryer repair costs vary by brand, model, and labor rates in your area, but these ranges are typical for a dryer not heating service call and repair:

• Diagnostic/service call: $80–$150
• Thermal fuse or thermostat replacement: $150–$300 (parts are often inexpensive; labor/access drives cost)
• Heating element (electric): $200–$450
• Igniter or flame sensor (gas): $200–$400
• Gas valve coils (gas): $200–$350
• Control board or relay issue: $250–$600+
• Vent cleaning (if professionally performed): $100–$250

Tip: If a thermal fuse failed, expect the technician to address airflow. Replacing the fuse without correcting vent restriction often leads to repeat shutdowns.

6) Professional Repair Pathway (When DIY Doesn’t Fix It)

If you’ve confirmed the settings, cleaned the lint filter, checked vent airflow, and verified power/gas supply—but your dryer still isn’t heating—professional diagnosis is usually the fastest, safest next step.

Consumer Priority Service (CPS) can help connect you to a factory-authorized repair pathway through a nationwide service network. That means your dryer can be evaluated by technicians who follow brand-specific diagnostic procedures and, when required, use OEM manufacturer-approved parts—especially important for heating and safety circuits.

If you already have CPS warranty service or an eligible appliance extended warranty, have your model and serial number ready when you reach out. If you don’t, you can still use authorized service for the repair and then consider protection for future breakdowns.

7) Warranty & Eligibility Clarification

It’s important to set expectations clearly:

• Protection plans and extended warranty coverage typically do not cover pre-existing issues or failures that have already occurred before coverage begins.
• Coverage is designed for future mechanical and electrical breakdowns after the plan is active and the product is eligible.
• After a proper repair restores normal operation, your dryer may be a better candidate for a protection plan for electronics and appliances going forward (eligibility depends on product type, condition, and plan terms).

8) Why Factory-Authorized Service Matters

For a no-heat dryer problem, the difference between a quick patch and a durable repair often comes down to correct diagnosis and correct parts.

• OEM parts fit and perform as designed: Heating elements, thermostats, and sensors must match the dryer’s specifications.
• Brand-specific training: Authorized technicians know common failure patterns and service bulletins for your model line.
• Proper diagnostic standards: A pro can test voltage, continuity, and cycling behavior safely—reducing guesswork and unnecessary part swaps.
• Long-term protection: Correcting airflow issues and replacing the right safety components helps prevent repeat failures.

9) After Repair: Future Protection

Once your dryer is working normally again, many homeowners choose an extended warranty coverage option for added peace of mind—especially if the appliance is out of the manufacturer warranty.

Depending on the plan, an appliance protection plan may help with future repairs related to:

• Mechanical failure in motors and moving components
• Electrical breakdowns
• Control board and relay failures
• Thermostats, sensors, and switches (when covered under the plan terms)

If you’re comparing options, look for clear claims steps, access to authorized service, and straightforward coverage explanations—those details matter as much as price.

10) FAQ: Dryer Not Heating

Why is my dryer running but not heating?

The most common reasons are a tripped breaker (electric), restricted airflow from lint/vent blockage, or a failed heating component (heating element on electric; igniter/sensor/coils on gas). Start with venting and power checks, then move to component diagnosis if needed.

Can a clogged vent cause a dryer to stop heating?

Yes. Poor airflow can overheat the dryer and trigger a thermal fuse or high-limit thermostat, which can shut off heat. Cleaning the lint filter and venting system is one of the most effective first fixes.

How do I know if my dryer heating element is bad?

Common signs include the dryer tumbling with no heat and normal airflow, or heat that never returns after power cycling. A definitive check requires a continuity test with a multimeter, which a technician can perform safely.

Why does my dryer heat up and then get cold?

This often points to vent restriction (overheating and safety cycling), thermostat/high-limit issues, or—on gas dryers—weak gas valve coils that fail once warmed up. Start with vent inspection and airflow testing.

Is it safe to keep using a dryer that isn’t heating?

It’s not recommended. If the cause is airflow restriction, continued use can overheat internal parts and worsen lint buildup risks. It also wastes energy and can lead to larger repair costs.

What should I check first on an electric dryer with no heat?

Check the cycle settings, clean the lint filter, verify strong airflow at the exterior vent, and reset the double breaker fully off/on. Electric dryers can run the motor on 120V but need full 240V to heat.

Do I need a factory-authorized technician for a dryer not heating?

For basic cleaning and vent checks, many homeowners can DIY. If heat components, wiring, or control boards are involved—or if it’s a gas dryer ignition issue—factory-authorized service helps ensure correct diagnosis and OEM parts where required. CPS can connect you to an authorized service pathway through its network.

Will an appliance extended warranty cover my dryer that already isn’t heating?

In most cases, protection plans don’t cover pre-existing failures. They’re intended for future mechanical and electrical breakdowns after coverage begins. After the dryer is repaired and operating normally, you can explore extended protection options for ongoing peace of mind.