If your oven is not heating, the most common causes are a failed bake or broil element, a blown thermal fuse, a faulty igniter (gas ovens), or a problem with the temperature sensor or control board. In many cases, the issue starts as a single worn component rather than a full oven failure.

Sometimes the fix is simple (a tripped breaker or a loose power connection). Other times it’s a mechanical or electrical breakdown that needs proper diagnosis to avoid repeat failures or unsafe operation.

Why This Problem Happens

Ovens rely on a few key parts to create and regulate heat. When one part fails—or when power delivery is interrupted—the oven may turn on but never reach temperature, heat unevenly, or stop heating altogether.

1) Failed bake element or broil element (electric ovens)

• What it is: The metal heating element at the bottom (bake) and/or top (broil) of the oven.
• Why it happens: Elements wear out over time, develop hot spots, or crack after repeated heating cycles.
• How serious: High—without a working element, the oven can’t heat properly.
• DIY-fixable: Sometimes. Visual inspection and replacement can be DIY for experienced homeowners, but correct part matching and safe power shutoff are critical.

2) Bad igniter or gas supply issue (gas ovens)

• What it is: The hot-surface igniter (or spark system) that lights the gas for baking.
• Why it happens: Igniters weaken and may glow but not draw enough current to open the gas valve; gas supply/valve issues can also prevent ignition.
• How serious: High—no ignition means no heat.
• DIY-fixable: Limited. Basic checks (gas shutoff valve position, error codes) are DIY; igniter testing/replacement is often best handled by a trained technician.

3) Tripped breaker, blown fuse, or power cord/terminal issue

• What it is: Electric ovens typically need 240V; a partially tripped breaker can leave the oven “on” but unable to heat.
• Why it happens: Breakers trip from surges or overload; loose terminal connections can overheat and fail.
• How serious: Moderate to high—loose connections can cause arcing/heat damage.
• DIY-fixable: Breaker reset can be DIY; anything involving wiring/terminals should be handled by a professional.

4) Faulty temperature sensor, thermostat, or selector switch

• What it is: The sensor tells the control how hot the oven is; switches and thermostats manage heating cycles on some models.
• Why it happens: Sensors drift out of spec; switches wear; wiring can loosen or corrode.
• How serious: Moderate—can cause underheating, overheating, or no heat if the control “thinks” the oven is already hot.
• DIY-fixable: Sometimes (inspection/reseating connectors), but accurate diagnosis often requires a meter and model-specific specs.

5) Control board or relay failure

• What it is: The electronic oven control (EOC) and relays that send power to elements/igniter.
• Why it happens: Heat exposure, power surges, or relay wear can prevent power from reaching the heating system.
• How serious: High—can lead to no heat or erratic heating.
• DIY-fixable: Usually not. Boards require careful diagnosis and correct OEM replacement.

Why This Problem Should Not Be Ignored

An oven that won’t heat isn’t just inconvenient—it can signal an electrical or gas-ignition problem that may worsen if you keep trying to use it.

• Escalating component damage: A failing relay, igniter, or element can stress other parts (wiring, connectors, control board).
• Cooking safety and food safety: If the oven can’t hold temperature, food may cook unevenly or remain undercooked.
• Electrical strain: Loose terminals or overheating connectors can lead to melted wiring or repeated breaker trips.
• Higher repair costs later: Replacing a single part early can be cheaper than replacing a board plus damaged wiring harnesses.

Step 1: Try These Fixes First (DIY Section)

Safety first: Before inspecting anything, turn the oven off. For electric ranges/ovens, switch OFF the breaker at the panel. For gas ovens, turn the oven off and avoid disassembling gas components unless you’re qualified.

1) Confirm the oven is getting the right power

1. Check the clock/display: If the display is dead, you may have a power supply issue.
2. Reset the breaker correctly: For a double-pole breaker, flip it fully OFF and then back ON. A “half-tripped” breaker can leave lights/fans working but no heat.
3. Test a different cooking mode: Try Broil for 60–90 seconds. If broil heats but bake doesn’t, the bake element/relay is a likely culprit (and vice versa).

Success looks like: The oven begins heating normally and reaches set temperature. If the breaker trips again, stop and schedule service—repeated trips often indicate a shorted element or wiring issue.

2) Check for obvious element damage (electric ovens)

1. With power OFF, inspect the bake element (bottom) and broil element (top).
2. Look for blisters, cracks, burn marks, or sections that appear separated.
3. If you saw sparking or heard popping before failure, that’s a strong sign the element shorted.

What it means: Visible damage typically indicates the element needs replacement. If elements look normal, continue diagnosing—elements can fail internally without obvious damage.

3) For gas ovens: verify ignition behavior

1. Set the oven to Bake and watch through the openings (without removing panels) for signs of ignition.
2. If you have a hot-surface igniter, it may glow before the burner lights.
3. If it glows but the burner never lights, the igniter may be too weak to open the gas valve.

Success looks like: Igniter glows and the burner lights within roughly 30–90 seconds (varies by model). If you smell gas without ignition, turn the oven off and ventilate the area, then contact a professional.

4) Check settings, lock modes, and error codes

• Control lock / Sabbath mode: Some ovens restrict functions in certain modes.
• Delay start: Confirm a delayed bake isn’t set.
• Error codes: Note any code and look it up by brand/model. Codes often point to sensor, latch, or control issues.

What it means: If the oven heats after correcting a mode/setting, you’re done. If codes return, move to Step 2.

Step 2: Identifying Mechanical vs Electrical Failure

Use the behavior of the oven to narrow down what’s most likely failing.

If the oven is completely silent (no fan, no click, no glow)

• Most likely: Power supply issue, blown thermal fuse, failed control board, or door switch/latch issue on some models.
• Next step: Confirm breaker is fully on; if display works but no response, suspect control/relay or safety circuit.

If it makes a relay “click” but doesn’t heat

• Most likely: Failed element (electric), weak igniter (gas), or relay sending power intermittently.
• Next step: Try broil vs bake to isolate which heat circuit is failing.

If it heats a little but never reaches temperature

• Most likely: Weak bake element, sensor out of calibration, poor door seal, or control issue cycling heat too early.
• Next step: Use an oven-safe thermometer to compare actual temp vs set temp (allow 15–20 minutes to stabilize).

If broil works but bake doesn’t (or vice versa)

• Most likely: The non-working element/igniter circuit, a specific relay, or wiring to that circuit.
• Next step: This is often a targeted part replacement after diagnosis.

If it heats, then shuts off and won’t restart until it cools

• Most likely: Overheating control area, failing thermostat/sensor, or a thermal cutoff/fuse opening under heat.
• Next step: Professional diagnosis is recommended to prevent repeated overheating damage.

Repair Cost Expectations

Oven repair costs vary by brand, model, and local labor rates, but these ranges are typical for many households:

• Heating element replacement (electric): about $150–$350 total in many markets (part + labor).
• Igniter replacement (gas): about $200–$450 depending on access and part type.
• Temperature sensor: about $150–$300.
• Thermal fuse / cutoff: about $150–$300 (plus root-cause diagnosis).
• Control board / relay board: often $300–$800+ depending on model and part availability.
• Wiring/terminal repair: about $150–$400, but can rise if harnesses are damaged.

If your oven is built into cabinetry or is a premium model, labor can be higher due to removal/installation time.

Professional Repair Pathway (Authority Positioning)

If you’ve tried the basic checks and your oven still isn’t heating, the next step is a proper diagnostic. Consumer Priority Service (CPS warranty service) can help connect you to a factory-authorized service pathway so the issue is diagnosed correctly and repaired to manufacturer standards.

• Access to a nationwide service network
• Brand-trained technicians familiar with model-specific heating and control systems
• Use of OEM manufacturer-approved parts when required/available
• Repair documentation that supports long-term reliability and future maintenance

If you’re comparing options, prioritize providers who can verify the exact failure (element vs sensor vs control) before swapping parts—misdiagnosis is a common reason “fixed” ovens fail again.

Warranty & Eligibility Clarification

It’s important to understand how protection plans work. An extended warranty coverage or appliance extended warranty generally does not cover pre-existing failures or issues that started before coverage begins. Coverage is designed for future mechanical or electrical breakdowns that occur after the plan is active.

If your oven is currently not heating, you’ll typically need a repair first. After the oven is restored to proper working condition, you may be able to explore protection options for future failures, depending on eligibility and plan terms.

Why Factory-Authorized Service Matters

Ovens combine high heat, high voltage (electric), and ignition systems (gas). Factory-authorized service helps reduce repeat problems by ensuring the repair matches the appliance’s design.

• OEM parts vs aftermarket: OEM parts are built to the oven’s specifications for fit, wattage, and temperature tolerance.
• Brand-specific diagnostics: Authorized techs follow manufacturer test procedures for sensors, relays, and safety circuits.
• Correct calibration: Some models require software resets, calibration steps, or updated control settings after repair.
• Long-term protection: Proper repairs help prevent connector overheating, recurring ignition issues, or control board stress.

After Repair: Future Protection

Once your oven is working normally again, a protection plan can help with the cost and hassle of future breakdowns. Depending on the plan and product category, extended protection typically focuses on mechanical and electrical failures such as:

• Heating element or igniter failure
• Control board or relay issues
• Temperature sensor malfunction
• Fan motor problems (convection models)
• Wiring and electrical component failures tied to normal use

If you’re already protecting other high-value items (like a smartphone protection plan, laptop warranty coverage, or a TV protection plan), adding an appliance plan can be a practical way to reduce surprise repair bills across the home.

FAQ: Oven Not Heating

Why is my oven not heating but the stove top works?

On many ranges, the cooktop and oven use different heating circuits. A failed bake element (electric), weak igniter (gas), blown thermal fuse, or control/relay problem can stop oven heat while the burners still work.

My electric oven turns on but won’t get hot—what’s the most likely cause?

The most common cause is a failed bake element or a partially tripped double-pole breaker. If broil works but bake doesn’t, the bake element or its relay/wiring is a strong suspect.

My gas oven igniter glows but the oven won’t heat. What does that mean?

Often the igniter is weak: it glows but doesn’t draw enough current to open the gas valve. This is a common failure that usually requires proper testing and replacement by a qualified technician.

Can a temperature sensor cause an oven not to heat?

Yes. If the sensor is out of spec, the control may limit or stop heating because it “thinks” the oven is already at temperature or detects an abnormal reading. This can cause underheating, overheating, or no heat with certain error codes.

Is it safe to keep trying to use an oven that isn’t heating?

It’s better to stop troubleshooting once you’ve confirmed basic settings and power. Repeated attempts can worsen electrical damage (especially with shorted elements or loose terminals) or create unsafe ignition conditions in gas models.

How do I know if it’s the control board or the heating element?

If an element is visibly damaged, that’s a strong clue. If elements look fine and the oven still doesn’t heat—or heat is intermittent across bake/broil—control board relays, sensors, or wiring may be involved. Accurate diagnosis typically requires meter testing and model-specific specs.

Do I need factory-authorized service for an oven not heating?

Not always, but factory-authorized service is helpful when the issue involves control boards, relays, safety circuits, or gas ignition components. CPS can help connect you to authorized service options when DIY steps don’t resolve the problem.

Will an appliance extended warranty cover my oven that’s not heating right now?

Typically no—protection plans generally don’t cover pre-existing issues. Coverage is intended for future mechanical or electrical breakdowns after the plan is active. After a proper repair restores normal operation, you can explore eligibility for ongoing protection.